Q: What is the difference between the Industrial Mill Finish and the Bright Brushed Finish?
A: The Industrial Mill finish will be a raw titanium finish that will have random, crossed lines throughout the finish. The Bright Brushed Finish will also be a raw titanium finish, but our team will go back by hand and work the lines to be parallel to one another, making for a cleaner/brighter finish. Learn more here about Lynskey's Titanium Frame Finishes.
Q: I have crashed my bike and have scuffed the finish, is it possible to refinish the frame from home?
A: If your frame had the Industrial Mill or Bright Brushed Finish, you will be able to rework the finish on the frame with a medium grade scotch-brite pad. If your frame has the Matte Satin Finish, the frame will need to be sent back to Lynskey to have the frame bead blasted again.
Q: What is the Torque Spec for the Saddle Clamp on the Lynskey Titanium Seatpost, mine slips at 12Nm?
A: The wedge will state 8-12Nm. However, 8-12Nm is for a carbon seatpost. For our titanium seatpost, the clamp may be tightened between 15-17Nm.
Q: How do I attached my Lynskey Seatpost to my saddle?
A: Please follow the instructions found on this Seatpost Assembly Instuctions PDF
Q: I am not able to loosen/adjust my saddle that is installed on a Lynskey Titanium Seatpost. While the bolt has been loosened, the saddle still is not able to be moved or rotated up and down.
A: The inserts for our Lynskey Titanium Seatpost are a wedge system that will essentially “wedge” the inserts into place, keeping the saddle from moving. You will want to back the screw out, only leaving a few threads of the bolt installed in the opposite wedge(the bolt will keep the assembly together once freed up). You will want to place a 2x4 or similar solid barrier on top of the saddle. Using a mallet, you will want to hit the 2x4 in the area above the nose of the saddle. 1-2 solid hits with the mallet should break the wedges free from the seatpost to allow you adjust the saddle position.
Q: What is the Torque Spec for your Seatpost collars?
A: The torque spec for the seatpost collar is 5Nm.
Q: My Lynskey frame has a developed a problem and I am the original owner, how do I start the warranty claim?
A: Please fill out the form in this Link. A Lynskey representative will reach back out to you with more information within 24 hours(excluding weekends).
Q: My Lynskey frame has developed a problem but I am not the original owner; can the frame be repaired.
A: Yes, we can repair the frame. You will need to fill out the form in this Link and we will have a repair quote drafted to bring the frame back to good as new condition.
Q: What Grease is recommended to use with the frame during the build-up?
- Bottom Bracket Threads - Finish Line Copper Based Anti-Seize
- Headset Cups - Finish Line Copper Based Anti-Seize (Tiny Bit)
- Seatpost - Finish Line Carbon Fiber Grip Paste
Q: Which derailleur hanger do I need?
A: Please refer to your Lynskey Model, Model Year and Serial Number (located on the underside of the bottom bracket shell) and reference this document: Derailleur Hanger Reference Chart PDF.
Q: What is the indexable nut that is used in my derailleur hanger and how does it work?
A: The indexable nut that is installed into the derailleur hanger of our thru-axle frames will have an offset threaded hole. The offset of the indexable nut allows us to properly center the wheel in the frame to ensure the rear wheel tracks perfectly.
Q: I have ordered the thru axle conversion kit, how do I select the correct indexable nut for my frame.
A: The 5 indexable nuts will each have 6 different orientations that the bolt can be set in. The best way to figure out which one to use will be to start with the zero-offset nut and see how much the wheel is off center. If it lines up with zero offset nut, awesome! If not, look to see how far off center the wheel is in the chainstay/seatstay. If minor, start with the 10-degree offset nut and try the 6 different orientations of the nut; if the 10 degree offset does not center the wheel, repeat the process but with the 20 degree offset nut, you will need to continue stepping up the degree offset until you find the right one. If the wheel is vastly off center when you check the zero-degree offset, start with the 50 degree offset nut and work your way down.